During the first two years of my JET life in Japan, there were oft-talked about plans to travel to Mt. Aso. Yet somehow these plans never materialized. In my dim recollections from earlier childhood travels, I recalled a barren landscape, full of noxious smelling gas, which at the time served only to aggravate my asthma. (In retrospect, I have high suspicions that this was merely a result of my poor physical fitness. I was after all a lazy lad).
Thus this year, and specifically these last 6 months, it is amusing to me that I have visited this region no less than 3 times.
The morning was gray, and threatened to rain; bad news for people who were to play tennis later. Despite the morning chill, by the time we reached the Fukuma City Hall parking lot it had warmed considerably to a balmy 19 degrees C. I was definitely feeling over-dressed in my boots, vest, and wind-breaker jacket.
We were to travel south in a 3-vehicle convoy. All had navigation equipped, and each car had someone in charge, with a folder containing maps, contact information, schedule, and an envelope with gas/toll money. This was no last-minute jaunt out to the wilds, but a carefully orchestrated operation.
The drive out to the Aso region was enjoyable, but as the sole male passenger in the car, I was soon lost by conversation of the latest happenings in J-Dramaland. Lunch was at a yakiniku restaurant called Aka-Ushi (Red Cow), and at the associated gift shop I purchased a box of Aso-Jersey Milk Caramels. While the lunch was forgettable, the view was breath-taking. Despite living in and around mountains in Fukutsu City, there is something entirely different about the mountains that surround the Aso farming region. The mountains form a ring, and each is inspiring and beautiful. I felt somehow more alive for seeing them.
Soon we arrived at our tennis grounds. In mountain-country it was definitely chillier, and the rain that had threatened us earlier started to fall. Despite this, our mini-tournament would not be postponed, so we gathered our gear and headed to the courts. After a quick warm-up, teams were decided and off we went. The results of my not having practiced for the last 6 weeks were quickly evidenced, and out of 6 teams, we placed last. The tournament is more for fun, but the rain, which alternated from a light sprinkle to a shower, kept me distracted. Prizes were awarded, and though we had an hour left on the courts, we decided to pack up and head for our ryokan.
It's worth noting that I had forgotten my ankle socks at home, so I ended up buying a pair from a convenience store. It was that or play in my hiking socks. Thus it is especially fitting that my prize was a pair of Adidas ankle socks.
Soon we were at our ryokan, and once checked it my room-mates and I quickly changed to our yukatas, and it was off to the baths. Well not quite for me. Given my recent bout with eczema, I had lingering doubts as to whether I ought to partake or not. So instead, I decided to get a massage. There are quite new to me, but are worth every yen.
Dinner was standard ryokan fare: seafood and a variety of Japanese vegetables and tubers. However, this being Kumamoto, I was treated to my first ever basashi. Basashi is raw horse. I am game to try most meats raw, and so I had no qualms about eating this. That said, it seemed a bit gamey for me, and there was a strange aftertaste. I didn't dislike it, but I didn't particularly like it either. I'll have to hold off judgment until I try to quality basashi. Also surprisingly delicious was the salted-backed yamame (or mountain-woman salmon). No doubt some distant salmon cousin, it was 100% salty goodness.
Afterward, we retired to our rooms, but in the meanwhile I decided that I would go and bath. Upon returning I found most of the circle had gathered in my room, and beers and snacks fueled deep conversations about the decline in leadership skills displayed by Japanese people.
That night was uncomfortably passed on futon mattresses, and I woke up with a crick in my neck. After a hearty breakfast consisting of eggs, sausages, rice, bread, and a large salad, I wandered down to the massage chairs for a quick 10 minutes. While they are no replacement for the real deal, it nevertheless worked out the crick and I was back to being a happy camper.
The second day of our trip involved a trip to a water tunnel converted to a community art gallery, the fountainhead of the Shirakawa River, the Aso Farmland Resort, and a visit to the Kikuchi Gorge. Of these, I had visited Kikuchi Ravine before, and it was interesting to compare the place between my visit during the summer and now. I'll say that Kikuchi Glen reminded me a lot of camping in the Algonquin, and I again felt a measure of peace while there. Also notable is that the literature on the various signs, pamphlets, and maps cannot decide on whether it should be called a gorge, ravine, or gully. I did not see any signs for Kikuchi Canyon though.
Tired but satisfied, we returned home to Fukutsu around 7pm. The two days were enjoyable to say the least, and I hope that I am around next year to do it all again.
Pics here, or you can click on the slideshow in the sidebar.
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